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Showing posts with label chickpeas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chickpeas. Show all posts

Roasted Butternut Squash and Carrot Soup

I love chickpeas and I love that I've found something new to do with them. Not a starring role this time, but a solid supporting role.

Many soups that are purèed call for a potato to thicken the soup. The potato serves that purpose nicely without adding too much flavor that affects the taste of the main ingredients. Well, I don't cook potatoes at home and never have them in my pantry. I'm not anti-potato, I just love them too much, you know?

In this soup, I used chickpeas to thicken the soup and it works beautifully. They aren't quite as neutral tasting as a potato but they work beautifully and add protein and additional fiber to the soup. There is one important element to getting a silky  purèed  soup: you must use a blender to purèe the soup if you want it to be silky smooth. A food processor or stick blender just won't do the trick. Just as you must use a blender if you want to make silky smooth hummus (you do, you know - really), it's necessary to this soup, too. When it comes to hummus, some would say that you can't make a silken hummus without rubbing off the skins but I swear by the blender method.

...but I digress. I replaced the "one medium russet potato" called for in several recipes I reviewed with 1 cup cooked chickpeas in the recipe I ended up with. You could use canned but did you know that when you use canned chickpeas or other beans, unicorns cry? It's true!

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND CARROT SOUP


Makes: approximately 2 quarts.

If you are using stock that is salted, take that into consideration and modify the salt you add in the other steps.

Equipment
  • Blender. If you don't have a blender, you can use a food processor, but the soup will not be as silky smooth. Do you know how to safely blend warm or hot liquids? If not, please read Step #6 of the recipe before you purèe the soup in the blender. 
  • Parchment paper to line your baking sheet when roasting the carrots and squash. You do it without, or use foil, or a silpat (silicone) liner, but I prefer parchment paper.

Ingredients
  • 2 lbs washed, trimmed carrots and butternut squash (peeled and de-seeded). Cut the carrots into 2" long chunks, splitting the thick pieces into half vertically (you want these pieces cut side down when you roast them) and cut the butternut squash into 1.5 to 2" square chunks. I used two medium carrots with the remainder of the weight coming from the butternut squash. It's not necessarily what you use, it's that you end up with 2 lbs of prepared vegetables.
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil (extra virgin or regular), divided
  • 1 medium onion, medium dice
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 medium cloves garlic, peeled and thoroughly smashed.
  • 2 teaspoons smoked paprika - sweet or hot, it's your choice
  • kosher salt
  • fresh ground black or Aleppo pepper
  •  1 cup cooked chickpeas
  • 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 quart vegetable stock
  • Garnish (optional) herb or garlic infused olive oil, croutons
Preparation
Preheat oven to 425F, rack in the upper third of the oven. Prepare a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

  1. Toss the prepared carrot and butternut squash chunks with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and a few grinds of black or Aleppo pepper and toss again to distribute the salt. Distribute the carrot and squash chunks on the baking sheet in 1 layer, spreading them out as much as possible. If they are crowded too much, they won't brown properly. Check them at 20 minutes. Roast in the oven for 20-30 minutes until the bottoms are browned. Remove and set aside.
  2. While the carrots and squash are roasting, heat a heavy bottom dutch oven - at least 4 quart capacity - for about 4 minutes over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and when it shimmers, add the onions and the bay leaf  - season this with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of freshly ground black or Aleppo pepper and cook until the onions are translucent but not browned, adjusting the heat as necessary. Add the garlic and cook for about 1 minute.
  3. Add the chickpeas and 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt and cook them together with the onion mixture for 5 minutes stirring occasionally. You don't want to take on too much more than a golden color on the onions, so adjust the heat as necessary. Stir-in the smoked paprika and combine well with the other ingredients, cooking for another minute. Add the 2 teaspoons of sherry vinegar and cook for another  one to two minutes, or until the sherry vinegar liquid is gone - or nearly so.
  4. Add the quart of vegetable stock plus the 1 cup of additional water. Bring the soup to a boil and reduce the heat so that it is simmering. Cook covered, and at a simmer for 30 minutes. 
  5. Take the soup off the heat and cool until it is tepid. You could even put it in a bowl, cover it and store it in the refrigerator for a few hours or over night. In any case, cool it down to a tepid temperature before you blend it.
  6. If your soup is warm, ladle it into your blender, filling the container no more than halfway and hold down the lid with a folded kitchen towel. Pulse 2 or 3 times and then open the lid to let any steam escape for a few seconds. Replace the lid and hold it down with the kitchen towel. Start the blender on a low speed and then increase it to the purèe setting and blend for one minute. Remove the lid and scrape down the sides. Purèe the soup for an additional 30 seconds. Pour the purèd batches into a clean 3-4 quart heavy bottom sauce pan. Continue the blending process until all of your soup is purèed.
  7. When the process is complete and all of the purèed soup is in the clean sauce pan, bring it to a simmer. Taste for seasoning and adjust to taste. Drizzle a little infused extra virgin olive oil on top or float a toasted slice of baguette that has been brushed with olive oil.

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Spicy Chickpeas: a Riff on Chana Masala

I dip in and out of Indian cooking and I can claim no expertise but I love the little I've learned about it. I absolutely love what happens when you combine spices and together they become a whole (taste and aroma) yet maintain an individual presence. While I've found good commercial blends, combining from scratch when you have the time - especially with whole spices - is so much better. The -several- recipes I referenced as a base for this dish were titled "Chana Masala". "Chana" (or chole) are chickpeas (garbanzo beans) and "masala" is a term used in Indian cooking -- there are many regions and types so I feel okay generalizing -- referring to a mixture of spices, often dry roasted, or a spice paste.
Draft 2 - with some cooking notes. More changes were made.
including leaving out the last addition of fried mustard seeds
at the end as I really didn't think it added enough
to go to the trouble.
I've seen references to Chana Masala in the regional cuisines of Punjab, Gujarat and Rajasthani. Most refer to the dish being fairly dry (not goopy or soupy) and being served with a fried bread ("bhatoora"). The dish is easily eaten out of hand with bhatoora. In my take on this it isn't completely dry, but far short of soupy.

Also, poblano chiles. Yeah, I used poblanos and they're definitely not used in Indian cooking. I really liked the idea of the slightly smoky flavor of roasted poblano in this dish and I have several in my refrigerator right now. One of my favorite vendors at the SF Ferry Plaza Farmers Market is Catalán Family Farm and they have some of the most beautiful chiles this time of year, as well as a bounty of heirloom tomatoes and other vegetables.

One thing I didn't have on hand that I saw in all my references was amchoor (or amchur) powder - a powder made from dried, green mangoes. I've had green mango salads in Thai restaurants and there's a slight sour-sweet taste that I'm guessing is enhanced in the dried version. Without amchoor powder, I substituted lime - adding the zest of 2 limes to the dish while it was cooking and the juice (about 3 tablespoons) at the very end of cooking, when the pan was off the heat. I don't know how comparable the flavor is, but I was happy with how the limes worked with the dish. A little sweet, a little sour and a slight hint of acid was a great contrast to the aromatic, smokey, spicy and medium heat of this dish.
When the mustard seeds start popping, be ready with the onions, otherwise the mustard seeds will jump out of the pan.
This dish is great as a side or as an entree. I ate it again tonight as a side with some left over roast chicken from Friday's dinner.


RECIPE: SPICY CHICKPEAS INSPIRED BY CHANA MASALA

Serves 2 as a main or 4 as a side
.
This is a great opportunity to practice mise en place by getting all of the ingredients either measured out or otherwise prepared. It's especially important to have the onions ready because when the mustard seeds start popping, within a few seconds they'll really start popping - right out of the pan and you don't want them to burn. Or end up all over the stove. Or on the floor. They're feisty.

Ingredients
  • Spice Paste
    • 2-4 dried hot red chiles, soaked in hot water to just cover, until soft ( I used 3 chiles d'Arbol, seeds removed)
    • 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
    • 1 tablespoon ginger, grated
    • 1 tablespoon fresh grated turmeric or 2 teaspoons dry
    • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
    • 1 pinch ground cloves
  • Dry Spices
    • 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
    • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
    • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
    • 2 teaspoons black mustard seeds 
  • Aromatics
    • 1 medium onion, small dice
    • 4 tablespoons oil (canola is what I used), divided
    • 1 sweet red pepper (bell, gypsy, sweet Italian) , small dice
  • 2 cups cooked chickpeas
  • 1 cup fresh tomato, medium dice (seeds and juice included)
  • 1 tablespoon amchoor powder or the zest of 2 limes
  • 1 large poblano chile, de-seeded and roasted (skin removed), medium dice
  • Water - 1 to 1 1/2 cups
  • Garnish
    • Juice of 2 limes
    • 1/4 cup cilantro, finely minced + a little extra to garnish the plate
  • Salt and fresh ground pepper
Preparation
  • Prepare the spice paste first. Purée the soaked chiles, including the soaking water, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cinnamon and cloves in a small food processor until it is an homogenous paste. Set aside.
  • In a skillet or large saute pan (3 quarts, should not be non-stick) heated on medium high, toast the cumin seeds, coriander seeds and fennel seeds for about a minute, until they become fragrant and the cumin seeds turn a slightly darker color. Take the pan off the heat. Remove the spices to a plate or bowl and cool for a few minutes. Grind in a spice mill or in a mortar using a pestle. Reserve. Return the pan to the heat - medium high - and add the mustard seeds for about 10-20 seconds, until the seeds begin to pop. When that happens, immediately add 3 tablespoons of oil to the pan, immediately followed by the diced onions.
  • Saute the onions until they are translucent, adjusting the heat as necessary and cook until completely soft and a little golden around the edges. Add the diced red pepper cook until it is tender but still has some structure
  • Clear a spot in the middle of the pan. Combine the spice paste with 1 tablespoon of the oil and add to the the pan. Gently fry the paste, adjusting the heat if necessary to keep it from burning, for a few minutes. Incorporate the spice paste into the onion and pepper mixture.
  • Fold in the chickpeas, tomatoes, amchoor powder (or zest of 2 limes) and the poblano chile
  • When nearly all of the liquid has reduced, take the pan off the heat and stir in the lime juice and the minced 1/4 of cilantro. Combine well and serve immediately.
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Snack Time: Spiced Roasted Chickpeas

Snack? Salad topping? Soup or hummus garnish? They all work. This is the best method I've found to roast them without a lot of oil and still be very crispy. This batch of two cups calls for just 1 teaspoon of olive oil. The spices are up to you but I recommend that you go easy on the salt. Taste after seasoning. If you're too conservative, you can always add more after second pass in the oven. Just make sure you season them while they're still hot. Because the size of the chickpeas will vary, there may be a few that brown 'more aggressively' (the polite way to say, you might get a couple that look burned) than the rest - just pick them out. I found about 5 in this batch. Keep an eye on them during the last 5 minutes, after they've been seasoned.

How you choose to season isn't limited to any particular spices. Just be careful of things that might easily burn, like herbs. The next batch I make are going to be seasoned with chipotle powder. Or maybe barbecue. Salt and vinegar?

RECIPE: SPICED ROASTED CHICKPEAS
Makes 1 3/4-ish cups
The options for spicing are wide open so get creative! It's very important that the chickpeas are thoroughly dry before being roasted. Otherwise, they're just going to steam during the first round of cooking.

Ingredients
  • 2 cups cooked chickpeas, drained of any liquid (rinsed, if canned) and then drained for at least a couple more hours (or overnight, covered and in the refrigerator) in a colander, set over a bowl.
  • 1 teaspoons olive oil
  • 1/4 (to start) teaspoon kosher salt.
  • 1/2 teaspoon commercial curry powder
  • 1 or more pinches of cayenne (start with one unless you are confident about your relationship with hot and spicy)
Preparation
  • Pre-heat the oven to 425F, rack in the middle, have a bowl ready for the hot chickpeas when you're ready to season them.
  • Spread the thoroughly drained and dry chickpeas on a rimmed baking sheet. Cook for 10 minutes. Shake the pan and turn it 180 degrees and cook it for an additional 5-10 minutes. The chickpeas should be darker in color with some darker brown spots.
  • Take the baking sheet out of the oven and remove the chickpeas to the bowl.
  • Add the olive oil and toss. Add the salt, curry powder, cayenne powder and toss thoroughly.
  • Taste for seasoning and adjust. When you are satisfied, spread the seasoned chickpeas on the baking sheet and return it to the oven for 5 minutes.
  • Serve warm. Store refrigerated in an air-tight container.
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Spoon Salad, Chickpeas and Wild Rice with Yogurt Sesame Sauce





A few years ago, I landed on Heidi Swanson's blog (101 Cookbooks) when I was looking for instruction on how to make yogurt and have found inspiration there, and in reading her cookbooks (Super Natural Cooking and Super Natural Every Day) ever since. Her focus, is on "...natural, whole foods and ingredients - vegetarian recipes that are good for you, with the occasional sweet treat".

At the time I stumbled across her blog I knew I wanted to maintain my membership in the "I eat meat" club, but wanted to cut back and focus on produce and whole grains as the majority of what I eat. I was inspired by not so much the main part of the dish (which looks delicious), but the dressing in her post: Sesame Yogurt Pasta Salad. In turn, Ms. Swanson was inspired by one of Peter Berley's recipes in his book.

I've written on Spoon Salad previously - a combination of raw vegetables cut up so that you can eat it with a spoon - with a good 'refrigerator life' that I make on a weekly basis and mix with a variety of other vegetables, herbs, grains, nuts, beans, dairy, meat, fish and/or tofu. The creativity is in the dressings and 'mix-ins'. The base vegetables change somewhat by season. Every once in a while, I'll use it as a base for a speedy saute or stir fry. I just don't get tired of it.

I had Spoon Salad in the refrigerator along with cooked chickpeas and wild rice and enough 'mix-ins' (avocado and cilantro) to make a great lunch, and enough leftover dressing to take to my friend Lynn's house the next day as a dip for sesame crackers.

RECIPE: SPOON SALAD, CHICKPEAS, WILD RICE & SESAME YOGURT TAHINI SAUCE

Sauce adapted from: Heidi Swanson's Sesame Yogurt Pasta Salad
Serves: 4 as a main dish and 6-8 as a side
You may make (and I recommend it) the dressing a couple of hours ahead of time and refrigerate. It will thicken up a little, but just add water - a tablespoon at a time - you don't want it to be watery.

SAUCE
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

  • 1 medium garlic clove, minded

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

  • 1 teaspoon minced ginger

  • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric

  • 1/2 cup warm water

  • 1/2 cup roasted tahini (if you use raw, you might want to add a teaspoon or so of toasted sesame oil)

  • 1/2 cup plain or Greek Yogurt (full fat, low fat or non-fat - all of them work)

  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

  • fine grain sea or kosher salt

 Combine the warm water, tahini and yogurt in a mixing bowl and add 1/4 teaspoon salt. Combine.

Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic, cumin, coriander, ginger, cayenne and turmeric. Stir and saute for about 30 seconds or until the spices are toasted. Add this mixture to the bowl with the water, tahini and yogurt. Add the lemon juice and combine well. Taste for seasoning.

SALAD
  • 4-6 cups of Spoon Salad (or any colorful vegetable-based salad)

  • 1 1/2 cups of cooked chickpeas

  • 1 1/2 cups of cooked wild rice

  • 4 scallions, chopped (green and white parts)

  • 1/4 cup cilantro (packed) chopped - leaves and the tender parts of the stem

  • 1 avocado, diced

  • fine grain sea or kosher salt

Combine all of the ingredients with 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt* . All but the avocado may be combined a couple of hours ahead of time and refrigerated. Take it out of the refrigerator a little before you serve - it should be chilled, but not cold. Dice and add the avocado right before serving.

Like Heidi, I like to serve the sauce on top of each serving of salad with any extra on the side.

* This assumes that none of the salad ingredients are seasoned with salt. If you are using any ingredients  that have been seasoned, adjust to taste.
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Get Yer Grains & Legumes: Chickpeas, Barley, Tomato, Avocado + Bacon Bowl


This post isn't so much about a recipe as an example of how I eat on (very nearly) a daily basis, inspired by a couple of folks and some basic decisions I made a few years ago about how I wanted to eat for the rest of my life - more on this in another post.




Hulled black barley
Just about once per week I cook up a batch of chickpeas (1 cup dry). Drained, they store beautifully, if kept refrigerated, for up to a week. I'll generally do another grain or legume and this week it was black, hulled barley. Black hulled barley tastes the same as regular hulled barley. I don't cook it to the point where it fully opens up, but just prior to that. It's nutty and (I think) delicious - I prefer it over pearled barley in many applications - although beef barley soup is one example where pearled barley tastes great. Pearled barley is polished to remove the outer bran layer. It cooks more quickly and isn't as chewy as hulled (I like the chewy). Hulled barley also keeps well if completely drained and refrigerated for 4-5 days. There are many hot and cold dishes I prepare where I throw in a handful of one or the other - or both.




Everything but the almonds I added as garnish are shown here. While I usually store chickpeas fully drained, yesterday
I cooked some with bay leaf, garlic and a little olive oil and stored them in their cooking water since
I knew I'd be using them within a few days.

Recipe: Chickpeas, Barley, Tomato, Bacon and Avocado Bowl

Serves: 2 as a main

I really love the taste of whole toasted cumin seeds. If you only have ground cumin, start with a moderately heaping 1 teaspoon. If you want to go vegetarian or vegan, substitute strips of braised, smoked or baked tofu for the bacon and add it when you garnish. Some sweet or hot smoked paprika can substitute for the smokey bacon flavor if you wish. The parsley is the main "greens" ingredient but you could use chard, kale, spinach or any other green of choice. This salad tastes best if you can let it sit in the refrigerator for a couple of hours. If you do that, take it out before you eat - it's best served at room temperature.

Garnish:
  • 3 slices thick-cut bacon cut crosswise into 1/2" lardons

  • 1/4 cup reserved, sliced scallions

  • 1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

  • 1 dozen large roughly chopped raw (or toasted) almonds

  • 1/2 (large) avocado, diced (do this right before you serve)

Ingredients:
  • 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon of whole cumin seeds

  • generous pinch of red pepper flakes

  • 1 large, or 2 small cloves of garlic, minced

  • 4 scallions, sliced or cut in 1" julienne strips. Reserve about 1/4 cup for garnish

  • 16 cherry tomatoes, halved

  • 1 cup roughly chopped parsley

  • 1 cup cooked chickpeas

  • 1 cup cooked hulled barley

  • Juice of 1 lime or 1 small-ish lemon


salt and fresh ground pepper for seasoning.
olive oil

Instructions:

Add the chickpeas and the barley to a microwave-safe bowl large enough to toss along with the other ingredients. If your chickpeas and barley came out of the refrigerator, stick it in the microwave and heat it up for a couple of minutes.

Heat a 10" non-stick skillet on medium high. If you are using a regular skillet, add a couple of teaspoons olive oil to the pan and when it begins to shimmer, add the bacon. Cook until it's browned, but not too crispy and somewhat tender. Remove, and drain on a paper towel-lined plate. Pour the fat from the pan into a heat proof bowl and reserve. Wipe out the pan with bunched-up paper towels to remove the tiny crispy bits of bacon. Set the bacon aside, but don't put it in the refrigerator.

Put the pan back on the heat and add 1 teaspoon of the reserved fat. After about 15 seconds, add the cumin seeds and the red pepper flakes and toast  over medium heat for a couple of minutes. The cumin should be a little darker and will be very aromatic. Clear a little spot and add the garlic. Saute for 1 minute. Add 2 more teaspoons of the reserved fat, then add the scallions and the halved cherry tomatoes to the pan with a pinch of salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste, stir and cook for a couple of minutes. The scallions should soften, but the tomatoes should not be cooked so long they begin to break down.

Remove the skillet from the stove and add the mixture to the combined chickpeas and barley. Toss and adjust the seasoning as necessary. Squeeze in the juice of one lime (or lemon); toss and taste again. Cover the bowl and place in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

At least 1/2 hour before you serve remove the salad from the refrigerator. When you are ready to serve, taste it once more and adjust the seasoning if necessary then divide it into two bowls. Dice the avocado and garnish each bowl with the avocado, chopped almonds, reserved chopped scallions, parsley and top with the crispy bacon lardons.
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Chickpea, Butternut Squash and Sausage Soup

It is cold and rainy in San Francisco.  I know that statement might deserve a big-fat raspberry from my Northwest, Midwest and Eastern seaboard friends but hey - for us it's miserable weather.
There I was with 2 quarts of celery root stock in my fridge, a desire to cook some chickpeas (not from a can - although I won't dis' you if you use canned but you're missing out on so much!  Who am I kidding? I'm definitely going to judge you if you don't cook your own chickpeas at least once.), a need use up a couple of sweet Italian sausage and a couple of chorizo sausages, a little butternut squash and some of the sauteed kale, onion and roasted lemon dish I made a few days ago. Oh - and leeks.

Back to the chickpeas.  Just as I was very pleasantly surprised when I made the celery root stock, the pot liquor from the first time I cooked chickpeas was a delicious revelation! I generally soak mine overnight and then simmer them with a couple of bay leaves until they are tender - not completely mushy - add a little salt to the water, stir then turn off the heat and leave the cover on until they cool down. I started with two cups (dried) chickpeas.  Those I didn't use for the soup will be roasted for a snack.

I sliced each of the chorizo sausages in half length-wise and cut half-coins and browned those.  Then I crumbled up and browned the two sweet Italian sausage links.  I removed them from the pan, drained off all but a little bit of the oil and threw about 2 cups of chopped leaks in the pan with a pinch of salt.  I cooked those on medium-low until translucent then added a (very) generous pinch of red pepper flakes and added-back the sausage and chorizo. I ran the leeks around the pot with a pair of tongs to de-glaze the sausage/chorizo fond. I added about two cups diced butternut squash, about 4 cups of the cooked chickpeas then I added the two quarts of celery root stock and the (about) 1-2 quarts of pot liquor from cooking the chickpeas and simmered it for about 30-ish minutes. I added about 2 cups of the previously cooked kale which had onions, garlic and chopped up roasted Meyer lemon and simmered just a few more minutes.

It was (and is) delicious, hearty and warming.
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