Infused Spirits and Shrubs Part 2: Shrubs Final

Shrubs: blackberry, mango and raspberry

In an earlier post on Infused Spirits and Shrubs (Part 1) I wrote about the history of shrubs. I never did get around to the strawberry or lemon, but decided to add mango, instead. This morning, I was crouched down in front of my lower pantry cupboard swirling seven one-quart mason jars filled with various fruits and vodka (still infusing) and decided it was high-time to strain and bottle my shrubs. I made three shrubs: blackberry, mango and raspberry. Each was a combination of fruit, sugar and apple cider vinegar in (near) equal amounts. The resulting syrup should be both sweet and tart, but neither of those characteristics should overpower the fruit. The thing that I really like about drinks made with a fruit shrub is that the vinegar gives drinks you make a quality of effervescence without bubbles - if that makes any sense. I am not a fan of sweet drinks so the tart quality of this syrup makes  me very happy. Of the three that I made, the blackberry has the least fruity character, but it is still very good. The mango and raspberry are absolute flavor home runs.

I didn't strain any of the three to be crystal clear (especially the mango, which is quite fibrous anyway), but I put each mixture through a fine mesh strainer and then through a double-layer of cheese cloth before bottling.

Straining the raspberry shrub: the remaining solids, while a wee bit seed-y, tasted good mixed into yogurt.

blackberry shrub, basil and lime cooler

Recipes: Fruit Shrub Syrup & Blackberry Shrub, Lime and Basil Cooler

Fruit Shrub Syrup
adapted from: Serious Eats: Cold-Processed Shrub
Yield: Will vary somewhat depending on the type of fruit.
The Serious Eats recipe says that it will make between 20 and 24 ounces, but each of the three I made (mango, blackberry and raspberry) yielded approximately 10 fluid ounces, or 300 ml each.
I made one with red wine vinegar and was not happy with how forward the vinegar taste was - at least using this cold process method. I've been happiest with apple cider vinegar.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup very ripe fruit, washed and dried


• 1 cup sugar


• 1 cup apple cider vinegar


• 1 glass container or jar with a tight lid to hold the mixture while it infuses


• fine mesh strainer and cheese cloth


• 1 bottle in which to decant the finished shrub - washed in the dishwasher or sterilised in boiling water. This may be slight overkill because of the vinegar, but it can't hurt.


• 1 muddler or wooden spoon

Instructions:

• Combine the fruit and sugar in the glass container and crush the fruit with the muddler or wooden spoon until the fruit is almost liquified and thoroughly combined with the sugar. Seal the jar or container and place this in the fridge until the sugar has dissolved. This may take anywhere from a few hours to a few days.


• Add 1 cup apple cider vinegar to the fruit mixture and mix well. Cover and store in the refrigerator for a least a week. Pick up the jar and swirl the contents every day or so.


• Strain this mixture through a find mesh strainer, pressing on the solids to extract the maximum amount of syrup and then strain once more through a couple of layers of cheesecloth.  Pour the twice-strained mixture into the bottle for the finished product, through a funnel. Refrigerate.

Blackberry Shrub, Lime and Basil Cooler
Serves: 2

• 6 fresh basil leaves


• 2 cups cracked ice


• 3 oz vodka


• 2 oz blackberry shrub


• 1 oz cointreau


• 2 oz fresh squeezed lime juice


• Optional: 1 oz simple syrup


• Cocktail shaker


• Muddler or wooden spoon


• Lime wedge quarters for garnish

1. Add 1/2 cup of cracked ice and basil leaves to the cocktail shaker


2. Gently muddle the ice and the basil for 10 seconds


3. Add the vodka, blackberry shrub, lime juice. Add the syrup if you prefer a sweeter drink.


4. Close the cocktail shaker and shake until the outside of the shaker feels icy-cold and sweats


5. Strain the cocktail over ice into two tall or double highball glasses, or straight-up into martini glasses.

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Infused Spirits and Shrubs Part 1: Getting Started

Raspberry-vodka infusion

 Infused Spirits
I very rarely make dishes with summer fruit that extend beyond washing them and standing over the sink to eat them - or eating them out on the front stoop, but that requires remembering to bring out a damp paper towel. If you're at the sink, no problem if you have drips and your hands get sticky, but... I had a hankering to make some infused spirits, and jumped in on the last bit of the main berry season.

Since it will take a few weeks for the infused spirits to get the the point where I can tell whether they're good or I give them as Christmas presents (KIDDING!), I'm going to refrain from posting recipes. I'm also thinking "infused spirits" rather than making a sweet, liqueur-type drink. When it comes to drinks - alcoholic or non-, my preference does not run towards sweet drinks. My default cocktail (cosmos w/my seesters notwithstanding) has one ingredient: bourbon, and (sometimes) ice - if that qualifies as an ingredient. I will taste the infusions, and decide where I want to go with that. I really don't want to end up with something that tastes like cough syrup. There are dozens of methods out there for any one infusion so I'm flying in the dark on this.

Right now, I have blackberry, raspberry and blueberry infusions sitting in a lower cupboard and am going to prepare a lemon infusion today. Oh - I also have a kumquat infusion that has been sitting there since June. It's doing fine, it's just taking a long time as I wanted only the essential oils from the peel and not much of the tart juice and I refused to strip the zest off of 20 kumquats.

My new favorite way to (temporarily) label jars and containers - blue painter's tape.

Shrubs
(See Part 2: here)

While I was doing research online and checking books about infused spirits, I kept running across "shrubs" and seeing references to shrubs: recipes for mixing fruit with sugar and then vinegar, mixing fruit with rum or brandy, sugar and (sometimes) wine - to be used to add to both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. At first I thought vinegar sounded like crazy talk but as I read more, I figured that if they were nasty, we wouldn't be still be using them.

The word "shrub" (applied to a beverage) derives, at least in part, from the Arabic word "sharab" which - as far as I can tell - and I heartily apologize to any Arabic speakers for any errors - means "to drink". Other "sharab" related English words are "syrup" and "sherbet". Perhaps the earliest time it appeared in a dictionary is 1747 in the Oxford English Dictionary as, "...any of various acidulated beverages made from the juice of fruit, sugar and other ingredients, often including alcohol".

Blackberry shrub syrup: I'll let it sit in the refrigerator for a week, then taste.

Stepping back in time a bit, punch (likely from the Indian word "panch" and Hindustani for "five") was originally made from five ingredients: alcohol, sugar, lemon, water tea and/or spices and named "paantsch". This drink was brought to England in the early 17th century and was made with a wine or brandy base. Then, around mid-century, Jamaican rum started being used. By the last quarter of the century documents make reference to punch houses (Wikipedia, "Punch (drink)"). Ye olde English folke brought punch to the American colonies. There's an interesting article I just remembered from Saveur on punch. Fortunately, the article (along with some of the recipes in a sidebar) is available online here.

In New England, shrub advertisements appear as well as recipes in early to mid-18th century. You could certainly buy lemons and oranges (I'm pretty sure they weren't cheap) but buying a bottle of shrub that would keep on the shelf was probably more economic. Making your own, even more so. Having a bottle of purchased or homemade shrub on the shelf meant you were well on your way to punch. Today, having some shrub on your shelf means you are on your way to a refreshing drink or cocktail.

 For the shrubs I've started so far (blackberry and raspberry), I settled on a non-alcoholic 'cold process' (Serious Eats: Cold-Processed Berry Shrub and Cocktail 101: How to Make Shrub Syrups) for these two batches rather than cooking the fruit together with the sugar and then adding the vinegar. Again, I think I'll taste before I make any recipe recommendations. I'm going to try a couple of variations in my next two batches - strawberry and lemon - as well.

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